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French Food Recipes: Goose Rillettes and Goose Leg Confit

This two-in-one recipe for both goose leg confit and goose rillettes requires a bit of planning ahead, but is not difficult or time consuming to make. Four goose legs with thighs attached will yield a good amount of rillettes and you’ll have an extra goose leg confit with enough meat to serve two. After the goose confit is cooked, there will be even more goose fat left than the amount with which you started.

This recipe can easily be modified to use duck meat instead of goose. Duck rillettes and duck confit are perhaps considered more traditional French foods, but both are equally delicious.

goose confit

Goose Confit Ingredients:

4 raw young goose legs with thighs attached, about 6 lbs.

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 ½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

25 cloves garlic

8 – 10 bay leaves, fresh or dried

8 – 10 sprigs fresh thyme

2 ½ lbs. rendered goose fat

Goose Confit Instructions:

Sprinkle 2 ½ tablespoons salt and the black pepper on the meat side of the goose legs. Put two goose legs in a 9 x 13 glass pan, skin side down. Place the garlic cloves, bay leaves and thyme on the meat side of the goose legs. Put the remaining two goose legs, meat side down on top of the others. The goose legs will be flesh to flesh with only the skin showing. Sprinkle the remaining ½ tablespoon salt on top of the goose legs (skin side). Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 – 36 hours to cure the meat.

Remove the garlic, bay leaves and thyme from the cured goose legs and set aside. Rinse the salt and pepper from the goose legs under cool water. Pat the goose legs dry with paper towels. Place the garlic, 5 bay leaves and a few sprigs of thyme in the bottom of a large pot. Put the goose legs in the pot, fitting them as tightly as possible in the bottom of the pan (two legs in the bottom, skin side down, with the other two on top, skin side up). Add the rendered goose fat to the pan and set the stove burner to medium heat. Once the goose fat has melted, change the heat to low and allow the legs to simmer on low heat for about three hours, or until the meat is falling off the bones and fully tender.

Remove the goose legs, bay leaves, thyme, and garlic from the fat. Strain the fat and reserve for another use. There will be at least 2 ½ – 3 lbs. of goose fat.

The goose confit can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one month if the legs are covered with goose fat. The excess strained goose fat can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one month or in the freezer for six months to a year. Use the goose fat to fry vegetables or potatoes or use again to make duck or goose confit.

goose or duck rillettes

Goose Rillettes Ingredients:

3 goose legs confit

1 onion, minced

¼ cup cognac or brandy

3 tablespoons flat leaf parsley, minced

25 garlic cloves, reserved from goose confit

½ cup plus one tablespoon rendered goose fat, reserved from the goose confit

1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper

sea salt to taste


Goose Rillettes Instructions:

Saute the onions in 1 tablespoon reserved rendered goose fat until the onions are soft and lightly golden. Put the cognac or bandy in the pan with the onions and immediately set the alcohol on fire, tipping the pan towards the gas flame of the stove or by using a match. Set aside.

Remove the goose meat from the bones, while the goose confit is still warm.  Discard the skin and bones. Shred the goose meat slightly in your hands and place the chunks in the bowl of a food processor.

Add the cooked onions, parsley, reserved garlic cloves, goose fat, and salt and pepper to taste to the goose meat. Process all the ingredients just until the meat is shredded and the ingredients are mixed. Do not over process or the mixture will turn into a paste.

Put the goose rillettes mixture in a terrine and press lightly to mold the rillettes into a rectangular shape, or spoon into ramekins. If the rillettes will not be used immediately (within a few days) cover the top of the terrine or ramekins with reserved goose fat. Store for up to one week in the refrigerator.

Truffle Recipes: Prawn and Fennel Salad with Black Truffle Vinaigrette

Prawn and Fennel Salad with Black Truffle Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

For the Salad

2 large bulbs of fennel (about 1.25 lbs. trimmed of stalks)

1/2 cup chicken stock

1/4 teaspoon black truffle salt

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 lb prawns, deveined and peeled, with tail on

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon marash chili

1/8 teaspoon truffle salt

5 cups arugula

Black Truffle Vinaigrette

1 teaspoon high quality aged balsamic vinegar such as Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, Reggio Emilia, Italy, Silver Label

2 tablespoons black truffle juice

1/4 teaspoon truffle salt

1 teaspoon black truffle oil

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Instructions: 

Cut each fennel bulb into wedges, about 10 wedges per bulb.  Put 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat.  Add the fennel and cook over medium low heat until golden brown, about 15 minutes.  Add the chicken broth, cover skillet, and cook until caramelized, about 30 minutes additional.  Season with truffle salt.

While the fennel is cooking, mix the prawns with 1 1/2 tablespoon olive oil, garlic, marash chili, and truffle salt in a bowl.  Set aside for at least 15 minutes.

To make the vinaigrette, mix the aged balsamic vinegar, black truffle juice and salt.  Add the black truffle oil, then the olive oil in a thin stream while whisking the dressing, causing the dressing to emulsify.

When the fennel is soft and caramelized, put another skillet over medium high heat. Add the prawns, including the olive oil and seasoning.  Cook until the prawns are golden on the outside and have just begun the curl.

To serve, toss the arugula with the black truffle vinaigrette.  Add the fennel and toss lightly.  Divide the salad among 2 – 4 plates.  Top with prawns and serve warm.

 

 

 

 

The California Ban on Duck and Goose Foie Gras is Almost Here

As of July 1, 2012, a California law will ban the production and sale of foie gras within the state. That means there is just a short time remaining for the state’s retail specialty food stores, restaurants and consumers to purchase foie gras in California.

As a result of the imminent state-wide ban on sales of foie gras, Mirepoix USA, one of the world’s leading online foie gras retailers, has decided to move its base of operations from California to Reno, Nevada. Other California-based companies will need to follow suit to stay in business.

Why is California prohibiting foie gras sales and production? Let’s talk a bit about the text and meaning of the law before getting into the state’s reasons for imposing the ban, the penalties for violating the law, and the law’s effect on California’s foie gras companies and devotees.

California’s Statutory Ban on Foie Gras

The statute (California State Senate Bill No. 1520 or SB 1520) prohibits the practice of force-feeding birds and the sale of products arising out of that practice if the force-feeding is performed “for the purpose of enlarging the bird’s liver beyond normal size.” Because gavage (the French term for force-feeding through a tube inserted into a bird’s esophagus) is the method foie gras producers typically use to fatten and enlarge a bird’s liver, California’s statute will prohibit the production of any form of duck or goose foie gras. Sales will not be permitted in California no matter where the foie gras is produced.

SB 1520 was signed into law by then-California governor Arnold Schwarzenegger in 2004. Since that time opposition groups have unsuccessfully attempted to have the law overturned. Enforcement of the ban is scheduled to begin on July 1, 2012.

The State’s Reasons for Banning Duck and Goose Foie Gras and the Opposition’s Response

As with most things in life, there are two sides of the story. Supporters of SB 1520, including many animal rights activists, maintain that gavage is cruel and inhumane. In fact, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), Farm Sanctuary, the Animal Protection and Rescue League, and other animal rights groups were instrumental in getting the law on the books. SB 1520 was signed into law by Governor Schwarzenegger after sailing through the California legislature.

Naturally, the law’s opponents (foie gras producers, retailers, a number of prominent restaurants and chefs, and foie gras connoisseurs) disagree, denying that gavage is inhumane or constitutes cruelty to animals. They contend there is nothing cruel or inhumane about gavage because (unlike people) ducks and geese do not have a gag reflex. Furthermore, they say, in the wild these birds are accustomed to swallowing fish whole and consuming large quantities of food to gain weight prior to their migratory flights.

Sanctions for Violating California’s Foie Gras Ban and the Law’s Effects on California Businesses and Consumers

Once enforcement of the ban commences on July 1, 2012, California’s police and animal control officers will be authorized to issue citations which will carry fines of up to $1,000 per day per violation. California restaurants will be forced to remove all foie gras dishes from their menus or assume the risk of paying substantial fines. As a practical matter, foie gras enthusiasts will no longer be able to savor the delicacy in any California restaurant.

Likewise, California-based foie gras producers and retailers will be forced to close down their California operations and relocate elsewhere. As mentioned above, Mirepoix USA has already moved to Nevada, but other companies will be affected too, including Sonoma Foie Gras. Hudson Valley Foie Gras, a prominent New York foie gras producer, has modified its production techniques. It has also been striving to arrive at standards for foie gras production that California would consider humane and acceptable. However, as of the date of this writing, no acceptable standard has been established and companies will be forced to relocate or pay crippling fines.

Unquestionably, it will be burdensome for foie gras producers and retailers to leave California, but the real losers here may be the state’s consumers. Although they will be able to physically leave the state, buy duck and goose foie gras from retailers located elsewhere and then bring it back to California, they will not be able to buy it online and have it shipped to a California address. And obviously, the state’s foie gras enthusiasts will no longer be able to enjoy their favorite delicacy in the state’s finer restaurants.

Foie Gras Recipes: Seared Foie Gras with Smoked Duck Breast, Lentils, Caramelized Leeks and Black Truffle Oil

As much as I appreciate and enjoy slow food, there is something to be said for luxury on the go.  I like to eat well everyday, and I do indulge in luxury foods throughout the week.  Often the recipes I create from whatever I have in the refrigerator, freezer and pantry, are among my favorites, and generally I have dinner on the table in about 30 minutes.

Spontaneous luxury cooking requires having a relatively well stocked kitchen.  The ingredients I almost always have on hand to enhance any meal include shallots, garlic, ginger, onions, fresh herbs, aged balsamic vinegar, black truffle oil, white truffle oil, truffle salt, pine nuts, and fleur de sel.  I always have a good selection of vegetables on hand, which vary by the season.  In the freezer I generally keep a supply of chicken stock and veal stock, stored in half a cup and one cup containers. Additionally I almost always have flash frozen portioned foie gras, foie gras cubes, duck legs confit, fresh duck breasts (raw), and sea scallops in the freezer.  These foods can be kept in the freezer for six months or longer and are nice to have on hand for last minute luxury meals.

One of my recent quick luxury meals consisted of a bed of lentils (precooked, purchased at Trader Joe’s) with caramelized leeks, fresh thyme and a drizzle of black truffle oil, sliced smoked duck breast, and seared foie gras. It look me about 30 minutes to prepare and serve this dinner.  Here’s the recipe for 2 people.

1 1/4 cups cooked lentils

3 – 4 leeks, cleaned and sliced in 1/2 inch rounds

A few sprigs of fresh thyme

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 cup chicken stock (store bought is fine)

Sea salt (or truffle salt) and pepper

One 12-oz smoked duck breast, sliced

Two 2-0z portions flash frozen foie gras, sprinkled with salt and pepper and scored on both sides

1 teaspoon black truffle oil

a few drops of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar

Cook the leeks in olive oil over medium heat until the leeks are hot and starting to brown.  Add chicken stock and cover.  Cook for about 20 minutes, keeping the pan moist with chicken stock as needed.  Add salt and pepper to taste.  Continue cooking until leeks are golden and somewhat caramelized.  Set aside.

Place the still frozen foie gras slices in a cold heavy skillet.  Turn heat to medium.  Cook the foie gras about 2 1/2 to 3 minutes on each side until golden brown on the outside and just set on the inside (similar to a custard).

To serve, make a bed of lentils and put the leeks directly on top of the lentils.  Drizzle with black truffle oil.  Place the duck breast on top of the leeks to one side and place the seared foie gras on top of the smoked duck breast.  Drizzle the plate with aged balsamic vinegar.

 

 

Foie Gras Recipes: Foie Gras Ice Cream

This foie gras ice cream, made with slow baked foie gras, Sauternes wine, sugar, egg yolks, butter and cream  is extremely rich and satisfying.  Serve this decadent ice cream for dessert presented  in a bowl with toasted macadamia nuts and bittersweet chocolate shavings, make a foie gras ice cream sandwich with two soft gingerbread cookies, or serve with crepes, caramel sauce and fleur de sel.

foie gras ice cream

Foie gras ice cream, like foie gas itself, can be successfully paired with a multitude of ingredients, particularly if the foie gras ice cream is prepared using savory ingredients such as veal or duck stock, herbs. and just a hint of sugar.  Since this recipe is for a sweet foie gras ice cream, there may be less applications for pairing this with savory foods; however there are certainly options worth exploring.  We served a small scoop of the foie gras ice cream on top of a piece of seared foie gras, a drizzle of thick, aged balsamic vinegar (Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, Reggio Emilia, Gold Label), pine nuts, and a fresh thyme garnish.  This combination of sweet and savory makes a perfect first course.

Foie Gras Ice Cream with Seared Foie Gras

Foie Gras Ice Cream

Ingredients: 

1 lb foie gras cubes, or grade A foie gras cut into pieces, veins removed

1/2 cup Sauternes wine

1 cup sugar

5 large egg yolks, lightly beaten

4 ounces unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

Instructions: 

Place the piece of foie gras in a baking dish and bake at 275 degrees for about 15 minutes or until the foie gras is just set inside.  Cut a piece in half to test for doneness.  Meanwhile, mix the Sauternes and sugar in the top of a double boiler.  When the mixture is warm and the sugar is dissolved, whisk in the egg yolks. Whisk continuously for about 10 minutes until the mixture is light yellow and thick.  Transfer this mixture to a food processor.  While the food processor is on, add the cooked foie gras pieces (save the rendered fat for another use) and blend until smooth.  Add the pieces of butter, little by little,  incorporating after each addition, then add the cream slowly.  As soon as the cream is incorporated, stop the food processor.  Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then chill in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes. Transfer the foie gras mixture to an ice cream machine and let the machine run until the foie gras ice cream is thick and frozen.

Makes about 6 cups

 

White Truffle Oil Uses Seem Endless…

It seems almost everything I prepare can be enhanced with white truffle oil. Some of my favorite white truffle oil uses include drizzling white truffle oil on salads–especially those containing hearty vegetables such as beets, leeks, asparagus, tomatoes and mushrooms–drizzling it on grilled or sautéed vegetables, drizzling on bread, pizza or popcorn, and adding it to pasta, risotto or potato based dishes.

Uses for truffle oil are almost the same for white truffle oil and black truffle oil. It’s really just a matter of personal taste and preference. White truffle oil is generally more subtle in flavor and won’t overwhelm the other ingredients unless too much is used. The rule with all truffle oil is that a little goes a long way. In general, white truffle oil is best drizzled over prepared food just prior to serving. In some cases it is added to sauces at the last minute, and sometimes in relatively large amounts.  For example, our recipe for foie gras hollandaise calls for one tablespoon of white truffle oil.

It’s also important to note that while white truffle oil uses may seem endless, truffle oil is never used for cooking. When heat is directly applied to truffle oil, the truffle flavor becomes almost unnoticeable.

I am frequently asked, “what is the best white truffle oil?” There are many brands of white truffle oil on the market and they are definitely not all equal. Urbani truffle oil has a robust taste and aroma and is widely regarded as a high quality product. Compared back-to-back, da Rosario truffle oil is more mild in both flavor and fragrance. Da Rosario offers the added advantage of being 100% organic. The white truffles used to flavor the truffle oil are harvested from an organic farm in Italy, so if organic truffle oil appeals to you, da Rosario truffle oil is the one to choose. Additionally, da Rosario truffle oil is flavored with real truffles.

Truffle oil is frequently flavored by natural or chemical ingredients which are not actually truffles. It is a challenge to produce “real truffle oil” because the real truffle flavor is short lived, and most consumers want a product with at least six months shelf life. Truffle oil infused with real truffles usually has a more mild flavor, and many people want the stronger truffle taste and aroma which can be achieved with artificial or natural flavoring.

Beets with white truffle oil and aged balsamic vinegar

 

 

Fatty Goose Liver Pate (Almost Goose Foie Gras Pate)

This mousse-like goose liver pate is made with fatty goose liver or extra fatty goose liver.  Neither product is goose foie gras.  They are somewhere in between a standard goose liver and goose foie gras.  The liver is harvested in the fall, just after the free-range geese have devoured extra quantities of food, as they naturally do in preparation for migration.  The goose liver is enlarged, more buttery and lighter colored than an average goose liver would be at another time of the year.  The size of each fatty goose liver is about two to five ounces–much smaller than a goose foie gras liver would be.

There are two grades of fatty goose liver, one which is more buttery than the other and closer to goose foie gras (extra fatty goose liver).  Either of these products can be used in this recipe with delicious results.

Fatty Goose Liver Pate: Almost Foie Gras

Ingredients:

12 Tablespoons unsalted butter

2 shallots, minced

1/2 tart apple, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup cognac or brandy

2/3 cup rich chicken, duck, or veal stock (preferably homemade)

2 sprigs thyme, stems removed

4 – 6 leaves sage

1 lb. fatty or extra fatty goose liver, cleaned of veins and fat

1/2 cup heavy whipping cream

Sea salt, to taste

3 teaspoons powdered unflavored gelatin

2 1/2 cups Concord grape juice

Instructions:

Turn over to 300 degrees.  Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a small skillet.  Add the minced shallots, apple and garlic and cook for about 5 – 10 minutes or until slightly golden.  Add the thyme and sage and cook for another minute.  Add the cognac or brandy and set on fire by tipping the pan toward the gas flame or by lighting with a match.  When the flame has died, add the stock.  Cook until the stock is reduced by half.

Puree the fatty goose livers and butter in a food processor.  Add the reduced stock mixture from the skillet and process.  Add the cream and process until smooth. Add salt to taste.  Strain the goose liver mixture to remove any chunks and the particles from the herbs.

Pour the strained goose liver mixture into a terrine, with inside measurements of about 11 1/2 by 3 1/4 inches.  Set the terrine in a roasting pan and fill the roasting pan with boiling water to come about 2/3 of the way up the side of the terrine.  Bake until set, about 35 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, soak the gelatin in 1/4 cup of the grape juice (it will harden). Put the remaining juice in a medium saucepan and boil until the juice is reduced by half, about 15 minutes.  Remove the juice from the stove and stir in the hardened gelatin until the gelatin dissolves.  Gently pour the juice on top of the terrine.  If you want some of the grape gelatin inside the pate, cut a 3/4 inch line down the center of the pate, allowing the gelatin to penetrate the goose liver pate when the juice is poured on top.

Serve with salad and crusty bread.

 

 

Foie Gras Recipes: Foie Gras and Smoked Duck Breast Salad with Pears, Hazelnuts, and Roquefort

This recipe for Foie Gras and Smoked Duck Breast Salad with Pears, Hazelnuts, and Roquefort is perfect for lunch or a light dinner.  I love this combination of ingredients, but certainly substitutions can be made.  Everything I put in this salad was already in my kitchen.  Any type of pear can be used, or use apples instead.  I used Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia, Gold label on the salad.  This aged vinegar is rich and syrupy with complex flavors.

Foie Gras and Duck Breast Salad

Ingredients:

10 – 12 ounce smoked duck breast, cubed

Two, 2-oz portions flash frozen foie gras, still frozen

1 ripe pear: D’anjou, Bosc, Bartlett, or Comice, diced

2 ounces Roquefort blue cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons roasted hazelnuts

Red leaf lettuce or baby greens

Aged Balsamic vinegar such as Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Fleur de Sel and freshly ground pepper

Instructions:

Combine the smoked duck breast, pear, hazelnuts, and Roquefort cheese in a small bowl and set aside.  Line the serving plates with whole leaves of red leaf lettuce or other greens, making a bed for the duck, pear, hazelnut and Roquefort mixture.  Score both sides of the frozen foie gras and sprinkle with salt and pepper.  Place the frozen portions of foie gras in a cold, large heavy skillet and turn the heat to medium.  The foie gras will begin to sizzle and render fat.  After about 3 minutes, or when the foie gras is nicely browned, turn over and cook an additional 3 minutes on the second side.  Cook the foie gras just until the inside is set (similar to a custard) and the outside is crispy and brown.  Place the foie gras on top of the duck breast pear salad.  Drizzle the salad with olive oil and aged balsamic vinegar.  Sprinkle salad with fleur de del and pepper.  Serves 2.

Foie Gras Recipes: Red Wine-Poached Torchon of Foie Gras w/ Poached Bosc Pear and Pear-Shallot Jam

The name torchon of foie gras, or foie gras torchon style indicates that the foie gras was prepared by being wrapped in a torchon, the French word for towel, and then poached. This fabulous recipe is from Michael Ginor’s book “Foie Gras, A Passion”. Though none of the steps are difficult, plan the make this recipe three days before serving since the foie gras torchon needs to refrigerate two nights before it can be served.

Red Wine Poached Torchon of Foie Gras

Red Wine-Poached Torchon of Foie Gras w/ Poached Bosc Pear and Pear-Shallot Jam

Serves 10 as an appetizer.

Ingredients:

Torchon

1 whole lobe of foie gras, about 1/2 pounds, cleaned and thoroughly deveined, at room temperature

Coarse salt

1 tablespoon black pepper, freshly cracked

1 bottle full-bodied dry red wine

4 shallots, chopped

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

Poached Pear

2 cups dry red wine

1 1/4 cups sugar

2-inch strip of lemon zest

Juice of 1/2 fresh lemon

1 bay leaf

1 clove

5 firm, ripe Bosc pears, peeled and cored, but left whole with stems intact

Pear-Shallot Jam

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 cup finely diced shallots

1/2 cup peeled and diced Bosc pear

1/2 cup red wine

2 tablespoons sugar

Garnish

Black pepper, freshly cracked

Fleur de sel

Assorted baby greens

Instructions:

Torchon

Season the foie gras with salt and pepper. Place the seasoned lobes in the terrine, without pressing them down, and set aside. In a saucepan, combine the wine, shallots, bay leaf, thyme, and cracked pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil and cook for 15 minutes. Remove the mixture from the heat and strain. Bring the mixture back to a boil and immediately pour over the foie gras. Let stand for one hour at room temperature, then refrigerate overnight.

Bring the foie gras back to room temperature.  Spread a clean towel (or cheesecloth) on a work surface and place the lobes side by side along one edge of the towel. Roll the foie gras in the towel, tightening as you go to create an even log, 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Tie the towel securely with butcher’s twine and refrigerate the torchon overnight.

Poached Pear

In a saucepan large enough to hold the 5 pears, comgbine all of the ingredients except the pears. Set over medium high heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes, or until the guar has dissolved. Add the pears to the simmering liquid and poach for 20 – 30 minutes until the pears are tender. Be careful not to overcook; the pears should retain their shape. Remove the saucepan from the heat and cool to room temperature. Lift the pears out of the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl or storage container. Strain the liquid into a saucepan. Set over medium high heat, bring to a boil, and reduce by half, about 15 minutes. Bring this syrup back to room temperature, pour over the poached pears, cover, and refrigerate until service.

Pear-Shallot Jam

Melt the butter in a saucepan. Add the shallots and saute until translucent. Add the wine and sugar and cook until the mixture has a jam-like, syrupy consistency.

Service and Garnish

Remove the foie gras torchon from the refrigerator 15 minutes before service. Unwrap the torchon, and using a sharp knife dipped in hot water, slice the foie gras into 20 1/2 inch slices. On chilled serving plates, arrange the two slices of the foie gras torchon. Top with a pinch of cracked pepper and fleur de sel. Remove the pears from the poaching liquid. Cut the pears and half, thinly slice each half without cutting all the way through, and fan on the serving plates. Garnish with assorted baby greens and quenelles of pear-shallot jam. Dab the plates with some of the poaching liquid.

 

Caviar Recipes: How to Use Pressed Caviar

Pressed caviar is a paste usually made of various grades and types of caviar.  The product, which is made from the caviar eggs that break during the packing of traditional caviar, generally comes in a caviar tin.  This unique type of caviar was once popular in France and the US, but has all but disappeared from the market in the last 20 years.  Recently Jacques Pépin teamed up with California Caviar Company to develop and re-introduce this product to the market. Jacques Pépin
‘s Payusnaya (the Russian name for pressed caviar) combines the nutty flavor of California white sturgeon, the assertive full sea flavor from Paddlefish, and the creamy, rich taste of Hackleback roe.

Pressed caviar is stronger and more concentrated than whole caviar roe, is quite versatile, and is generally best incorporated into a recipe.  The product can be rolled between two sheets of plastic wrap, and then cut into strips, circles, diamonds, or other shapes and used to add flavor and to dress up canapes or other hors d’oeurvres.  It can be diced and added to tuna or salmon tartar.  Th disk of pressed caviar can be frozen and then shaved or grated over pasta, eggs, or potatoes.

When recently presented with the opportunity to try California Caviar Company’s pressed caviar,  I used some of Jacques Pépin’s recommended recipes and just modified them based on what I had on hand.

Pressed Caviar on Sweet Potato Chips

For a simple-to-prepare hors d’oeuvre, top sweet potato chips with a dollop of creme fraiche or sour cream, some minced fresh chives and a diamond of pressed caviar.  Alternatively, baby potatoes could be boiled, cut in half or sliced, then topped with the same ingredients.

Jacques Pépin suggested making an omelet with pressed caviar and sour cream. Below is the recipe I created.

Omelet with Pressed Caviar

Omelet with Pressed Caviar, Smoked Salmon and Creme Fraiche

3 eggs

2 tablespoons creme fraiche

1 tablespoon fresh minced chives plus larger pieces for garnish

2 ounces smoked salmon

1/2 avocado, sliced

salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 oz pressed caviar

First, roll the pressed caviar between two sheets of plastic wrap, creating a thin sheet of pressed caviar (about 1/16 inch thick). Cut half the sheet into strips and dice the other half.

Gently stir the chives and the diced pressed caviar into the creme fraiche. Set aside.

Beat the eggs and season to taste with salt and pepper.  Melt the butter over medium heat  in a skillet and add the eggs.  Sitr the eggs until almost set.  Place the smoked salmon and avocado over the middle third of the eggs.  Remove the pan from the heat and put the caviar creme fraiche mixture on top of the avocado slices.  Fold 1/3 of the omlete over the the center strip, then the other 1/3.  Garnish the omelte with the strips of caviar, chives, and extra creme fraiche if desired.

 

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