Our recipe for Tournedos Rossini takes this already decadent classic dish made of filet mignon, seared foie gras and fresh black truffles to another level of indulgence.  This divine dish is made with Australia’s finest 100% Wagyu beef filet mignon, a homemade veal stock which simmers for 24 hours (rendering an intensely flavored stock as the base for the demi-glace sauce), fresh Perigord truffles, perfectly seared foie gras, served on a creamy white truffle celery root puree.

One might think this dish could be too rich to consume.  After all, Blackmore 100% Wagyu beef has a marbling score close to Japanese Kobe Beef, and is so rich and tender, it almost melts in your mouth.  Amazingly enough, even with the addition of buttery foie gras and a rich black truffle infused demi glace, the overall dish does not seem excessively heavy.  It’s rich, satisfying, and wonderfully delicious.

Tournedos Rossini is typically served on a piece of toasted bread or brioche. To make this classic version, simply omit the celery root puree and use the toasted bread as the base of the dish instead.

Ingredients:

Two 6-oz Blackmore 100% Wagyu Beef filet mignon steaks, at room temperature

Two 2-oz slices foie gras

1/2 ounce fresh black truffle

1 cup veal stock, preferably home-made

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup minced shallots

1/2 cup Madera wine

1 small bay leaf

3 sprigs fresh thyme, 1 for the sauce, 2 for garnish

1/2 teaspoon white truffle balsamic vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and diced

Celery root puree or two pieces of toasted bread

Instructions:

If using homemade veal stock, begin preparing the stock at least 24 hours in advance.  (veal stock recipe).  If serving the dish with celery root puree, prepare the puree prior to making the sauce and keep warm or gently reheat at serving time.

To make the sauce, melt a tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan. Add the shallots and cook over low heat until translucent, about 3 – 5 minutes.  Add the Madera wine to the shallots and cook until the wine is reduced by half and is somewhat thickened.  Add the bay leaf, thyme, and veal stock and cook until reduced by half again, leaving about 3/4 cup of sauce in the pan.  Add the balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.  Slice the black truffle thinly with a truffle shaver or sharp knife and set aside.  Whisk in the cold, cubed butter to the sauce a few pieces at a time. When the butter has been incorporated into the sauce, add the truffle slices.  Keep the sauce warm over a double boiler for at least 30 minutes, allowing the black truffle flavor to permeate the sauce. Alternatively, allow the sauce to sit, covered, for 30 minutes, then gently reheat when ready to serve the dish.

Heat a frying pan to medium. Melt 2 teaspoons butter in the pan. Sprinkle the Wagyu Beef filet mignon with sea salt and pepper.  Add the steaks to the pan and cook on each side about 2 minutes or until the steaks are rare.  Set aside and cover with foil.

Sprinkle salt and pepper on both sides of the foie gras. Sear the foie gras in a frying pan over medium heat, about 1 1/2 minutes on each side.  Set foie gras on a paper towel.

To serve, place about 1/2 cup celery root puree in the middle of a heated plate. Place the filet mignon on top of the celery root puree and top the filet with a piece of seared foie gras.  Spoon the warm sauce and black truffles over the foie gras and steak, allowing a pool of sauce to remain in the plate.  Garnish with fresh thyme.

Black truffles are at their prime in mid February and this recipe for Steamed Lobster with Perigord black truffle butter is the perfect Valentine’s Day dinner for two. The flavor of Perigord black truffles is an exquisite pairing with fresh, succulent lobster. The lobster shells can be used to make lobster stock. Simply save the water in which the live lobsters were steamed, add the shells and additional water, along with a carrot, onion, bay leaf, and any other seasoning of your choice.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, diced (1 stick)

1 ounce fresh Perigord Black Truffle

1 1/2 tablespoons water

3/4 tablespoon Truffle Juice Extra

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

Two live 2-pound Maine lobsters

Instructions:

Heat the water in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk a few pieces of butter into the water until the butter melts into a creamy liquid. Continue adding the butter, little by little, whisking vigorously after each addition. It is important that the butter does not get too hot, or it will get oily and separate. When all the butter has been added, and the mixture is creamy, add the truffle juice and salt. Shave the truffles very thin and add to the butter sauce. Let the truffles rest in the hot butter sauce, allowing the truffle flavor to be released. The sauce can be carefully reheated, or can be kept warm over a pan of hot water or in a double boiler.

To steam the lobsters, put about 1 inch water in a large pot and bring the water to a boil. Add the live lobsters to the pot. Cook over medium heat for about 15 minutes.

Remove the lobsters from the pot, and split each lobster lengthwise with a heavy knife. Clean the body of the lobster under hot water. Place the lobster on the serving plates and spoon some of the truffle butter over the tail of the lobsters. Serve the remaining truffle butter in a small cup on the side.

This Jean Louis Palladin recipe for Black Truffle Potato Cakes with Black Truffle Balsamic Vinaigrette boldly features fresh black truffles and has an exquisite presentation. This decadent seven layer “cake” is made by stacking sliced boiled potatoes marinated in black truffle balsamic vinaigrette with alternating layers of thickly sliced black truffles. After baking the stacks long enough to release the wonderful flavor of the truffles, the “cake” is frosted with black truffle balsamic vinaigrette and minced black truffles.

I intended to make the recipe exactly as it was written in “Jean Louis Cooking with the Seasons”; however, I instead adapted the recipe to what seemed to make sense. The potato slices were supposed to be perfect rounds, with no cracks, cut to exact dimensions with a cookie cutter. Perhaps I cooked the potatoes too long, but there was no way those slices were going to stay together if I tried to cut them to perfect 2 inch rounds. Secondly, the cakes were supposed to cook for 10 – 12 minutes in the oven. Because the flavor of black truffles intensifies with heat, I thought the cakes needed to stay in the oven longer.  I cooked them for a good 20 minutes, and still they could have been cooked a bit more. Lastly, the recipe said to use 2 1/2 ounces of flash frozen black truffles, sliced into 1/16 inch slices. I used fresh black truffles and sliced them as directed. I used 2 ounces for two servings, which was almost double black truffle from what the recipe specified. I’ve written the recipe below based on how I prepared it and I was thrilled with the result!

Black Truffle Potato Cakes with Black Truffle Balsamic Vinaigrette

Salt water (1/4 cup coarse salt mixed with 3 quarts water – for cooking potatoes)

4 large well formed russet potatoes (about 10 ounces each and at least 2 1/4 inches wide) scrubbed well

Ice water (for cooling potatoes)

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

3.5 ounces Perigord black truffles (preferably large size – 2 ounces or more per truffle)

Vinaigrette:

1/2 cup vegetable oil

1/4 cup canned truffle juice extra

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons good quality balsamic vinegar such as Silver Label, Traditional Balsamic Vinegar from Reggio Emilia, Italy

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1/2 ounce black truffle, finely chopped

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the potato rounds about 3 1/2 hours before the dish will be served. Add potatoes to boiling salted water and cook for about 50 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Test doneness with a skewer to prevent breaking the potatoes apart.  When the potatoes are tender, transfer them to the ice water for cooling. Reserve the hot salt water.

Process all the Black Truffle Balsamic Vinaigrette ingredients in a blender or food processor.

When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, heat a very sharp, thin-bladed knife in the hot salt water, then slice 1/8 inch slices. Submerge the knife in the hot salt water after each slice. 28 slices of uniform size will be needed to prepare four cakes. There might be unused potato. Place each slice on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil.

Brush each slice generously on both sides with the black truffle balsamic vinaigrette, sprinkle the tops with salt and pepper and let the potato slices marinate at room temperature for 2 hours. Reserve at least 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette to spoon over the top of the cakes before serving.

Before assembling the cakes, slice the truffles into 24 slices, about 1/16 inch thick. (If the truffles are smaller than 2 ounces each, slice 48 slices, making the slices thinner than 1/16 inch). Mince the scraps and less than perfect slices for “frosting” the cakes. If cut ahead of time, store the truffle slices in a sealed container in the refrigerator.

To assemble and serve, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Assemble the cakes in a small baking pan lined with parchment paper or foil. For each cake, start with a marinated potato round. Season the top lightly with salt and pepper. Cover the potato round with one large or two smaller black truffle slices.  Continue until each cake has seven potato slices and six layers of black truffles. End each cake with potato. Brush additional vinaigrette on the top of each cake. Cover the pan with foil and bake the cakes for 20 – 25 minutes or until thoroughly heated. (Ideally, the truffles will be slightly cooked and softened). Heat the serving plates.

Whisk the black truffle vinaigrette and spoon 1 – 2 tablespoons over each cake. Sprinkle the reserved minced black truffle on top of each cake.  Serve immediately, providing sharp knives for cutting the cakes at the table.

Do you want to know how to use truffle oil?  There are so many uses for truffle oil, it’s hard to know where to start and where to stop. We’ve narrowed the list down to our top 10 uses for truffle oil.  In most cases, either black truffle oil or white truffle oil can be used interchangeably, based on one’s personal taste preference.

Before we get into the list, there are a few facts about truffle oil that are important to know. There are different types of truffle oil on the market, most ranging in price from $2 – $8 per ounce.

It is becoming increasingly known that most truffle oil is made with chemical or natural flavor or aroma, usually not extracted from actual black truffles or white truffles. However, having said that, there are some quality “truffle oils” which have an excellent truffle flavor and serve the purpose of enhancing recipes with the distinct and pleasurable taste and aroma of fresh truffles, even if the oil has never been in direct contact with fresh truffles.  In fact, some would argue that commercially produced truffle oil (using natural or chemical aroma and flavor) has a more desirable truffle taste, a longer shelf life, and an overall better result than pure truffle oil made only from infusing oil with real truffles.  Let us know what you think.  We’d love to hear your opinion.

Truffle oil can in fact be made at home with high quality olive oil and fresh black truffles or fresh white truffles (We will discuss how to make truffle oil in a follow-up article).  Because the truffle flavor dissipates quickly, homemade truffle oil (or truffle butter) needs to be used within a few days. The uses for truffle oil whether homemade or store-bought are the same.

Truffle oil is almost exclusively used as a finishing oil, meaning, the truffle oil is drizzled over a dish at the end of the preparation, usually in small amounts.  Rule number one is be careful not to overdo it!  Truffle oil is not used for cooking.  The truffle flavor will be compromised if exposed to high heat.

The last point we’ll make is that truffle oil should not be used in every dish.  Though there are endless uses for truffle oil, if three out of five courses include truffle oil, the charm of this unique flavor experience is diminished or even lost.

Without further ado, here is our list of Top 10 Uses for Truffle Oil:

1. Use truffle oil to enhance the flavor of fresh truffles. Summer truffles and Burgundy truffles are considerably more mild in flavor than winter truffles, therefore, drizzling white or black truffle oil directly on the fresh truffle slices is one of our favorite uses for truffle oil.

2. Make truffle oil vinaigrette.  Use a teaspoon or two of truffle oil combined with olive oil, lemon juice or vinegar, salt, pepper, and dijon mustard. Use truffle oil vinaigrette for salads with mushrooms, summer truffles, hard cheeses and dried or cured meats.

3. Drizzle truffle oil over potatoes, pasta, polenta or risotto. Widely regarded as one of the top uses for truffle oil, the mild flavored starchy base of potatoes, pasta polenta and risotto makes a perfect match with the flavor of black or white truffle oil.

4. Pizza with truffle oil. Truffle oil is makes a wonderful addition to pizza crust, especially white pizza.

5. Eggs and truffle oil make a great pair. Whether drizzled over scrambled eggs or an elegant cheese omelette, eggs and truffles are a pairing not to be missed.  Though fresh truffles are frequently used with eggs, truffle oil is an inexpensive way to enjoy this classic pairing.

6. Truffle oil goes well with many vegetables. Some of our favorite combinations include asparagus, cauliflower, sweet potato, yams, corn, mushrooms of any type, and squash of any type.

7. Beef Carpacio is wonderful with truffle oil. The combination of beef carpacio, shaved Parmesean, arugula, or other bitter green, lemon, and olive oil laced with truffle oil is heavenly.  Try adding fresh shaved summer truffles, burgundy truffles or white truffles for a real treat.

8. Dishes using wild mushrooms generally can be enhanced with truffle oil. Think wild mushroom risotto, creamy mushroom soup, mushroom ragout, wild mushroom polenta, etc…

9. Finish a fish filet, filet mignon, duck breast or nice piece of lamb with truffle oil. Many types of fish, red meat, and even chicken, rabbit and other white meats pair well with fresh truffles, which means, they also pair well with truffle oil as well.

10. Truffled popcorn, potato chips and French fries. Our list of uses for truffle oil would not be complete without this addition.  After the cooking process is complete, toss the finished product with salt and truffle oil and enjoy.

This foie gras terrine is layered with fresh spinach leaves and served with a black truffle salad with aged balsamic vinegar and white truffle oil.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 to 1 lobe of Grade A Foie Gras
• Salt and white pepper
• 3 to 4 tablespoons of Sauternes
• 3 to 4 tablespoons brandy
• 1 bunch spinach leaves, cleaned and stemmed
• Oil for mold
• 2 to 3 roots salsify
• 2 cups loosely packed mesclun leaves
• 8 teaspoons white truffle oil
• 8 teaspoons 100-year-old balsamic vinegar
• 8 teaspoons reduced beet juice
• 2 tablespoons julienned black truffles
• Fleur de Sel and black pepper

Instructions:

Cut 1/2 – 3/4 inch slices of foie gras from the lobe and devein them. Lightly season with salt and white pepper. Marinate in the Sauternes and brandy for several hours.

In a non-stick pan over medium-high heat, quickly sear the foie gras slices on both sides. Do not overcook. Cool the foie gras slightly on paper towels. Wilt the spinach leaves in the foie gras fat and blot on a paper towel. Season the spinach lightly with salt and pepper and allow to cool. Rub the terrine mold with a little oil and line it with plastic wrap. Arrange a layer of foie gras slices in the terrine, and top with a layer of spinach. Continue the layering process until the mold is filled. Press down and drain off any excess fat; cover and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Peel the salsify roots and slice them length-wise with a vegetable peeler into 12 or 16 thin strips. Place the strips on a non-stick sheet pan or parchment paper and bake at 375 degrees until golden and crispy, about 5 or 6 minutes.

Assembly: Cut 1/2 inch slices (or the desired thickness) of the foie gras terrine. Place a mound of mesclun greens in the center of each plate and top each with 2 slices of the terrine. Arrange the salsify around the terrine. Drizzle some white truffle oil and balsamic vinegar on the greens and around the plates. Drizzle some Beet Juice around the plate. Top the greens with the julienne of black truffle. Season with a little kosher salt and black pepper.

This recipe is one of many wonderful recipes featured in Charlie Trotter’s by Charlie Trotter, published by Ten Speed Press.

Serves 4

Making a foie gras terrine is really not very hard.  Perhaps for some, the most challenging part is deveining the lobe of foie gras. When making a terrine, it is important to use a grade A lobe of foie gras, and to clean it thoroughly.  The veins should be removed thoroughly; however, try not to break up the flesh more than is necessary.

It’s best to leave the foie gras lobe out of the refrigerator for an hour or two before you devein it.  The foie gras will be more pliable when at room temperature.

In the past, I have prepared this recipe with preserved black truffles; however, when in season, fresh Perigord black truffles will always have more flavor than preserved truffles.

Foie gras terrine with black truffles

Ingredients:

duck foie gras, grade A, 2 lbs.

1 ½ teaspoon sel rose or Himalayan pink salt

½ teaspoon coriander

½ teaspoon ginger powder

½ teaspoon papika

1 teaspoon szechuan peppercorns

1 ½ teaspoon sea salt

1 cup Sauternes

½ cup Port wine

white pepper

1 oz whole black truffle, fresh or preserved, thinly sliced

Remove all the veins from the lobe of foie gras.  Combine all other ingredients except the truffle slices in a small roasting pan just big enough to hold the foie gras.  Put the foie gras in the marinade and refrigerate for one to two hours.

Bake the foie gras in a 300° preheated oven for 10 minutes.  The foie gras should be rare.  Pour off the cooking juices and reserve.

Line a terrine mold with plastic wrap, leaving a few inches on each side (enough to cover the terrine once made).  Put half of the foie gras in the bottom of the terrine, smooth side down.  Place the sliced truffles over the foie gras, mainly in the center of the terrine.  Place the rest of the foie gras, smooth side up, in the terrine.

Cover the terrine with the plastic wrap.  Put a piece of cardboard, cut to the size of the terrine mold, on top of the plastic.  Use beans, stones, or cans to evenly apply weight on top of the terrine.  Refrigerate at least one hour.

Simmer the reserved cooking juices over medium heat, skimming off all impurities.  Once the fat is clear, set it aside and cool slightly.  Remove the weights and plastic from the terrine and pour the cooled fat over the top of the terrine.  Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one more hour.

To serve, cut thin slices with a hot knife and serve with greens.

This recipe features the classic pairing of foie gras and black truffles.  Though it can be made with flash frozen Perigord black truffles, or preserved black truffles, it is, of course, best with fresh, ripe black truffles.

Makes 12 appetizers or serves 6 as an entrée.

Ingredients:

One duck foie gras, 1.5 lbs

salt
and pepper

1/4 cup Armagnac (cognac or sherry may be substituted)

1 – 2 ounces Perigord black truffle cut in thin slices

flour

3/4 cup demi-glace

brioche (or bread) 2”rounds

olive oil or butter

micro greens or parsley

Instructions:

Cut the lobe of foie gras in slices of about 3/4” to 1”. Carefully remove large veins. Salt and pepper each side. Marinate the foie gras and truffle slices in Armagnac, for a couple of hours.

Remove the foie gras from the marinade, wipe dry and dust a small amount of flour on both sides. Combine the Demi-Glace with the truffles and Armagnac and heat slowly. Meanwhile, sear the foie gras slices in a pan over medium-high heat, browning both sides, but being sure not to overcook. Remove the foie gras from the pan.

Toast the brioche rounds, or if using bread, fry the rounds in olive oil or butter. Serve the foie gras slice over a brioche or bread round, and top with sauce and truffle slices. Garnish with micro greens or parsley.

This recipe for Monkfish Wrapped in Black Truffles and Pancetta with Truffle Sauce is exceptional.  This recipe is one of the least time consuming and least complicated Jean-Louis Palladin recipes we have ever prepared.  Usually when we prepare recipes from his book “Cooking with the Seasons” we spend anywhere from one to two days preparing the recipe.

Serves 4

Ingredients

Sauce:

• 6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

• 1 1/4 oz fresh black truffle, coarsely chopped

• 3 Tablespoons lobster or chicken consomme or stock

• Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Monkfish:

• 1 1/2 oz black truffle

•6 oz pancetta, sliced thin

• 2 (10 – 12 oz) skinless fillets of monkfish

• Freshly ground pepper

• 2 Tablespoons plus 1 Teaspoon olive oil

• 1/2 oz black truffles for garnish

Start the sauce: Cream the butter in a food processor. Add the truffles and continue processing until smooth. Cover truffle butter and refrigerate until firm, at least one hour.

To finish the dish and serve: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Slice 1 1/2 oz of truffles paper-thin. Set aside. For the garnish, julenne 1/2 oz of truffles.

Cut the monkfish fillets in half crosswise to form 4 equal portions. Season generously on both sides with pepper. Heat 2 Tablespoons oil in a very large skillet over high heat, 2 – 3 minutes. Add the fish pieces and cook 30 to 45 seconds on each side. Drain on paper towels; let cool about 2 minutes.

Grease a cookie sheet or baking pan with the remaining 1 teaspoon oil; set aside. Now prepare each portion of monkfish as follows: Cover all surfaces of each portion, except the very ends, with 1/4 of the reserved truffle slices; then wrap fish crosswise with 1/4 of the pancetta slices, sealing truffle slices against the fish and leaving ends of fish uncovered; ends of the pancetta slices should be underneath the fish. Once all fish portions are prepared, transfer them, seam side down, to the prepared cookie sheet. Bake uncovered in the preheated oven just until the fish is cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes; do not overcook. Heat the serving plates in the oven for the last 2 to 3 minutes.

Meanwhile, finish the sauce. To do this, combine the reserved chilled truffle butter with the consomme or stock in a heavy saucepan. Heat over medium heat just until the butter is melted, whisking constantly; season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from heat.

When the monkfish is cooked, cut each portion in half crosswise with a sharp knife; arrange 2 of the halves on each heated serving plate and spoon 2 Tablespoons sauce in between. Garnish with the julienne truffles. Serve immediately.

We made these delicious onion crepes with black truffles a few years ago.  The combination of flavors of earthy black truffles, duck fat, cream and cured meat is divine!

Black Truffle Crepes

Serves 4 – 8

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup flour

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 2 eggs

• 1 cup milk

• 4 ounces black truffles

• 3 oz goose or duck fat

• 1 garlic clove

• 2 large onions

• 4 slices diced pancetta or bacon

• salt and pepper

• 3 oz melted butter

• 3 oz crème fraiche or heavy cream

Instructions

To make the crepe batter: In one bowl, mix 1/2 cup flour with 1/4 teaspoon salt and set aside. In another bowl, beat 2 eggs, add 1 cup milk, then add the flour mixture, add two tablespoons melted butter. Option: add 1/2 tablespoon of Armagnac or Cognac. Set aside.

Peel the truffles saving the peelings, slice the truffles thin. Cut four round pieces of waxed paper, six inches in diameter if you are using a six inch pan. Rub them with garlic, then brush on some melted butter. Cover the waxed paper rounds with the truffle slices so that the truffles cover the entire paper, brush with melted butter again, then put them in the refrigerator for an hour or so.

Slice the onions thin, place in a pan with goose fat (or duck fat) add the chopped pancetta (or bacon) salt, pepper, and cook until the onions are light golden. Add the truffle peelings and let them heat just a little. Add the cream, heat for two minutes at the most, cover and set aside, keeping it warm.

Make four crepes, the same size as the waxed paper circles. Set aside keeping crepes warm. On each crepe, spread the onion mixture. Take the truffles out of the refrigerator and top each onion covered crepe with one of the pieces of waxed paper, truffles side down (truffle slices are on top of the onion mixture and the paper is on the very top). Put the crepes in the oven until the butter on the wax paper melts and the truffles are warm. Remove from the oven, then remove the paper gently. Serve warm with Fleur De Sel and/or pepper.

Option: when truffles are not in season, you may replace them with foie gras shavings from a foie gras torchon or canned product. In this case, on a warm crepe add the warm onion mixture, add the foie gras shavings, top with a slight sprinkle of pepper, and serve immediately.

This recipe is a simple classic for fresh black truffles, known as Poulet Demi-Deuil, or Chicken in Half Mourning. This recipe is usually prepared with chicken, however, we prefer the taste of Cornish game hen. Black truffles are best when cooked with some form of fat, so if the skin is very lean, baste the breasts with butter a few times during the cooking process. If you are using chicken, you will probably need to double or triple the recipe, since the chicken will be much larger.

Serves 2

Ingredients

• 1 cornish game hen (or double the recipe for chicken)

• 1 oz fresh Perigord black truffle, wiped clean and sliced thin

• Salt and pepper

• 1 1/2 tablespoons butter

• 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced in half

• 1 tablespoon Madeira

• 1 teaspoon cognac

Instructions

Use your fingers to gently pull the skin from the breast, legs, and thighs of the Cornish game hen without tearing the skin. Slip the truffle slices under the skin, covering the breast and legs completely. Shake a small amount of salt and pepper inside the game hen before trussing it tightly with kitchen string. Wrap the hen in plastic and refrigerate overnight to allow the truffles to flavor the meat.

Rub ½ tablespoon butter on the outside of the bird, then cover with salt and pepper. Rub the cut side of the garlic and then the remaining butter on the inside a small casserole just large enough to hold the bird (casserole should have a lid). Place the hen in the casserole and add the Madeira and cognac. Cover tightly and bake for 1 hour or until golden brown.  Keep the breast moist, adding butter if necessary.