Chinese truffles are winter black truffles, which are abundantly available in China, and wholesale for as [...]]]>

There is nothing intrinsically wrong with Chinese truffles. Consumers simply need to be aware that Chinese black truffles (Tuber sinensis, Tuber indicum and Tuber himalayensis) are a different variety of black truffles than the prized Perigord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum).

Chinese truffles are winter black truffles, which are abundantly available in China, and wholesale for as little as $20 to $30 per pound.  In contrast, Perigord truffles, mostly harvested in France, start at $800 per pound wholesale.

Chinese truffles are often used in pate or economical truffle products.  There is demand for lower priced products containing truffles, and the Chinese truffle provides a solution for this market.  Consumers who are concerned about the type of truffles used in these products should read the packaging carefully or inquire with the manufacturer to determine the truffle variety used in the product.  The fact that the product is manufactured in France or Italy does not mean that the truffles are Perigord black truffles.

The only similarity between fresh Chinese truffles and Perigord black truffles is the appearance. Some varieties of Chinese black truffles (specifically Tuber himalayensis) look almost identical to Perigord black truffles, and would require a microscope to differentiate between the two truffle varieties.  The similarities between the two types of winter truffles stop with their appearance. In fact, there are numerous differences between Chinese truffles and Perigord black truffles including the fragrance, taste, texture, shape and the amount of veins.

Perigord Black Truffle

Fragrance: First, and most notably, the fragrance of the two truffle varieties is strikingly different.  Chinese black truffles do not have a strong aroma.  In contrast, the slightly musky and slightly sweet aroma of Perigord black truffles is so pungent and unique, the earthy fragrance cannot be mistaken.

Taste: The taste of the two truffle varieties is also a dead giveaway. When Perigord black truffles are fully mature and cooked (the heating process releases the truffle flavor), they have a distinct flavor, which is undeniably superior to the mild flavor of Chinese truffles.

Texture: Chinese truffles tend to be more elastic than Perigord Black truffles.  Sliced Chinese truffles generally won’t break because of the difference in elasticity; they are more likely to bend than break.

Shape: Perigord black truffles are frequently bulbous and irregular in shape, where Chinese truffles tend to be more on the round side.

Veins: When ripe, black truffles should be black inside with white veins.  Perigord black truffles are characterized by having many veins, where Chinese truffles may appear darker because they might have less veins and the veins are frequently smaller than those of the Perigord black truffle.

China is known for producing cheap “knock offs” of the real thing, and the Chinese truffle seems to follow this trend.  Though the Chinese truffles appear to be very similar to the world famous Perigord black truffle, the differences in taste, texture and aroma are profound.  There is no substitute for the divine fragrance and rich earthy flavor of Perigord black truffles.

Black Truffle Crepes

Serves 4 – 8

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup flour

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 2 eggs

• 1 cup milk

• 4 ounces black truffles

• 3 oz goose or duck [...]]]>

We made these delicious onion crepes with black truffles a few years ago.  The combination of flavors of earthy black truffles, duck fat, cream and cured meat is divine!

Black Truffle Crepes

Serves 4 – 8

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup flour

• 1/4 teaspoon salt

• 2 eggs

• 1 cup milk

• 4 ounces black truffles

• 3 oz goose or duck fat

• 1 garlic clove

• 2 large onions

• 4 slices diced pancetta or bacon

• salt and pepper

• 3 oz melted butter

• 3 oz crème fraiche or heavy cream

Instructions

To make the crepe batter: In one bowl, mix 1/2 cup flour with 1/4 teaspoon salt and set aside. In another bowl, beat 2 eggs, add 1 cup milk, then add the flour mixture, add two tablespoons melted butter. Option: add 1/2 tablespoon of Armagnac or Cognac. Set aside.

Peel the truffles saving the peelings, slice the truffles thin. Cut four round pieces of waxed paper, six inches in diameter if you are using a six inch pan. Rub them with garlic, then brush on some melted butter. Cover the waxed paper rounds with the truffle slices so that the truffles cover the entire paper, brush with melted butter again, then put them in the refrigerator for an hour or so.

Slice the onions thin, place in a pan with goose fat (or duck fat) add the chopped pancetta (or bacon) salt, pepper, and cook until the onions are light golden. Add the truffle peelings and let them heat just a little. Add the cream, heat for two minutes at the most, cover and set aside, keeping it warm.

Make four crepes, the same size as the waxed paper circles. Set aside keeping crepes warm. On each crepe, spread the onion mixture. Take the truffles out of the refrigerator and top each onion covered crepe with one of the pieces of waxed paper, truffles side down (truffle slices are on top of the onion mixture and the paper is on the very top). Put the crepes in the oven until the butter on the wax paper melts and the truffles are warm. Remove from the oven, then remove the paper gently. Serve warm with Fleur De Sel and/or pepper.

Option: when truffles are not in season, you may replace them with foie gras shavings from a foie gras torchon or canned product. In this case, on a warm crepe add the warm onion mixture, add the foie gras shavings, top with a slight sprinkle of pepper, and serve immediately.

Our all time favorite Thanksgiving side dish is whole foie gras braised in wine and garlic. [...]]]>

Although we enjoy all the traditional dishes on Thanksgiving – turkey, stuffing, gravy, potatoes, yams and green beans – we always like to add a touch of luxury and surprise to the Thanksgiving menu. Here are some of our favorites…

Our all time favorite Thanksgiving side dish is whole foie gras braised in wine and garlic. Just before serving, the juices and rendered fat from the foie gras, the wine in which it was cooked, and about half of the 50 cloves of garlic are pureed. This sauce, along with the sliced braised foie gras and remaining whole cloves of garlic is absolutely delicious with Turkey or any other type of fowl.

To prepare this scrumptious dish, first take a 1.5 pound whole lobe of grade A foie gras and sprinkle it with salt and pepper. Heat a pan large enough to hold the lobe of foie gras, then brown the foie gras on all sides over medium to medium high heat. (This will take about 10 – 15 minutes and the inside should not be cooked yet.)

Meanwhile blanch about 50 peeled garlic cloves for a few minutes. Remove the foie gras when it’s golden brown and set it aside. Add the garlic to the rendered fat in the pan and cook for a few minutes. Add about 1 cup of dry white wine and some thyme or rosemary leaves to the garlic and foie gras fat. Cook for about 30 minutes or until the taste of the sauce is to your liking. Add salt and pepper to taste. Return the foie gras to the pan with the garlic and juices and continue to cook just until the foie gras is done (check it with a knife).

Remove the foie gras from the pan again. Put all the liquid in a blender with half the garlic cloves. Blend until smooth.

Slice the foie gras and present it on a plate with the whole garlic cloves. Pour the sauce around the foie gras and serve. Garnish with fresh herbs.

If you would like to add foie gras to your meal, but you want to keep it simple and economical, just before serving the stuffing, saute a bag of foie gras cubes (1 lb. is $45) until golden brown (add salt and pepper to taste), and mix the small pieces of foie gras into the stuffing.

We always prefer to serve light appetizers in order to preserve everyone’s appetites for the main meal. Caviar and champagne is a wonderful way to kick off the Thanksgiving celebration! Though caviar can be prepared with other ingredients, we think caviar is best served alone in a crystal, glass, or porcelain bowl, preferably on ice. If you prefer a less formal presentation, or wish to pass the appetizers, try caviar on toast points or blini.

This year Perigord black truffles will not be ripe in time for Thanksgiving. If you want to add fresh truffles to your Thanksgiving meal, we suggest shaving white truffles over your mashed potatoes, or potatoes gratin. The wonderful favor and fragrance of white truffles is a perfect match with creamy potatoes.

Burgundy truffles will also pair well with Thanksgiving dinner. Add sliced Burgundy truffles to your stuffing just before serving (do not cook them), or top a pumpkin soup with shavings of Burgundy truffles.

Adding a touch of luxury to Thanksgiving dinner is easy!  Please let us know if we can assist you in any way with your menu planning.

We began offering Burgundy truffles [...]]]>

The most fragrant and flavorful truffles are now beginning to mature for harvest! Ripe Burgundy truffles are available now, to be immediately followed by winter white truffles from Alba, Italy (beginning this week!), and finally, Perigord black truffles will be available towards the end of November, possibly in time for Thanksgiving. We began offering Burgundy truffles two weeks ago, and expect to have them for a least a few more weeks. Last year’s Burgundy truffle season was very short, due to the weather conditions in France. Let’s hope we don’t have a repeat this year! Burgundy truffles usually reach maturity in mid to late September and the season generally extends through mid November. When ripe, Burgundy truffles have a chocolate brown interior with ivory veining. A close relative to the summer truffle (tuber aestivum), the exterior looks almost identical bearing a black rough surface formed of small pyramid shapes. These truffles have a delicate but distinctive hazelnut flavor and an intense, musky, flowery aroma. Burgundy truffles are more flavorful than summer truffles, but not as robust in flavor as black Perigord winter truffles. Attempts to cultivate the burgundy truffle have not been successful; therefore our season’s harvest is acquired primarily in wild forests and woodland areas throughout East-Central France, using trained dogs. Burgundy truffles are used similarly to summer truffles. They are best served raw or lightly cooked and are usually presented in thin slices. Use Burgundy truffles in salads, with eggs, potatoes, risotto, or pasta. Burgundy truffles add wonderful flavor to cream or stock based sauces, but should be cooked only briefly on low heat. Try our recipe for Beef Carpaccio with Burgundy Truffles posted on our blog. The combination of thinly sliced raw filet mignon, spicy arugula, and earthy Burgundy truffles is divine!

Ingredients:

1 [...]]]>

This potato salad is a version of my favorite French potato salad from the classic “Silver Palate” cookbook.  I toned down the dressing and added black truffle oil.  The original recipe calls for ¼ pound of bacon.  The summer truffles pair well with the more refined flavor of pancetta, but certainly bacon could be used.

Ingredients:

1 pound new or red-skinned potatoes, quartered

3 oz pancetta, diced

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup finely chopped shallots

¼ cup chopped parsley

2 ounces summer black truffles, sliced thin

Vinaigrette:

1 ½ tablespoons Champagne or white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme

½ teaspoon sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons black truffle oil

Drop the quartered potatoes into a pot of cold salted water.  Bring to a boil and cook about 10 minutes until the potatoes are tender but still pretty firm.

Meanwhile, sauté the pancetta in olive oil until some of the fat has rendered and the pancetta is slightly crisp (Bacon may be substituted, in which case no olive oil is needed).  Remove pancetta (or bacon) and leave the fat in the pan.  Add the chopped shallots to the hot oil and sauté until the shallots are tender and golden but not too brown.  Set aside.

To make the vinaigrette, whisk the vinegar, garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper until blended.  While whisking, slowly add the black truffle oil in a slow, steady stream until the dressing is emulsified.

When the potatoes are cooked, drain them and drop them in a medium bowl.  Toss the potatoes with the reserved shallots and pancetta or bacon fat and about ½ of the parsley.  Add the truffle slices and pancetta or bacon.  Drizzle the vinaigrette over the truffle slices, pancetta and potatoes and toss carefully, trying not to break the truffle slices.  Sprinkle remaining chopped parsley on top of the salad and serve.

The most important thing to remember when using black summer truffles in recipes is that these truffles are NOT the same as winter black truffles or winter white truffles.  Summer truffles have a much milder [...]]]>

Summer black truffles are at the height of the season!  This article addresses how to enjoy summer truffles to the fullest.

The most important thing to remember when using black summer truffles in recipes is that these truffles are NOT the same as winter black truffles or winter white truffles.  Summer truffles have a much milder aroma and are more mushroomy in taste than their sought after cousins.  It will rarely work well to substitute summer truffles for winter black truffles, particularly if the preparation requires cooking.

Winter black truffles are best when cooked.  The cooking process releases the wonderfully intense truffle flavor and aroma.  Summer truffles are so delicate in flavor that they will lose much of their taste if cooked; therefore the most important rule with summer truffles is to serve them raw or only slightly warmed.

On the exterior, summer truffles look very similar to winter black truffles as both varieties have a dark, almost black exterior skin.  The inside of summer truffles is beige, where winter truffles are dark charcoal to black inside (when ripe).

Summer Black Truffles

Summer truffles have a delicate nutty flavor and a slightly crisp texture.  Because the flavor of summer truffles is fairly mild, pairing them with other foods is easy.  Summer truffles offer an economical way to boost almost any seasonal menu.

One of the easiest ways to incorporate summer truffles into existing recipes is to simply add them to your favorite salad.  Summer truffles pair well with all summer vegetables: baby greens of any type, asparagus, green beans, fava beans, corn artichoke, fennel, onions, leeks and more. For salad preparations, about one ounce of summer truffle per person is a good rule of thumb.  To intensify the truffle flavor, use a black truffle oil vinaigrette.  If you wish to have a one-dish-meal, top the truffle laced salad with a piece of grilled halibut, sole, salmon, or other fresh fish.

Summer black truffles can be added raw, at the last minute to soups, potato dishes, risotto, eggs, and pasta dishes.  Simply shave a generous portion of summer truffle on top of the dish or incorporate the truffles into the dish just before serving.  Just remember not to expect the same intense flavor as you would enjoy with winter black truffles or white truffles.

In terms of pairing summer truffles with meats and fish, there are endless choices.  Generally lighter meats and almost any fish or shellfish work well with summer truffles.  Choose meats such as veal, pork, or poultry, beef carpaccio, or use cured meats as an accent to a vegetable, potato, or pasta dish.  Recommended seafood selections include scallops, lobster, langoustines, or almost any type of fish such as halibut, cod, sole, snapper, skate wings, monkfish, or even salmon.

Pairing wine with truffles is simply a matter of personal taste.  Certainly any wine originated from a truffle producing area would be a good choice.

Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of summer truffles is the affordable price.  At a fraction of the cost of winter black truffles or white truffles, one can be generous with summer truffles, adding them to a wide variety of seasonal recipes with pleasing results.