There is nothing intrinsically wrong with Chinese truffles. Consumers simply need to be aware that Chinese black truffles (Tuber sinensis, Tuber indicum and Tuber himalayensis) are a different variety of black truffles than the prized Perigord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum).
Chinese truffles are winter black truffles, which are abundantly available in China, and wholesale for as little as $20 to $30 per pound. In contrast, Perigord truffles, mostly harvested in France, start at $800 per pound wholesale.
Chinese truffles are often used in pate or economical truffle products. There is demand for lower priced products containing truffles, and the Chinese truffle provides a solution for this market. Consumers who are concerned about the type of truffles used in these products should read the packaging carefully or inquire with the manufacturer to determine the truffle variety used in the product. The fact that the product is manufactured in France or Italy does not mean that the truffles are Perigord black truffles.
The only similarity between fresh Chinese truffles and Perigord black truffles is the appearance. Some varieties of Chinese black truffles (specifically Tuber himalayensis) look almost identical to Perigord black truffles, and would require a microscope to differentiate between the two truffle varieties. The similarities between the two types of winter truffles stop with their appearance. In fact, there are numerous differences between Chinese truffles and Perigord black truffles including the fragrance, taste, texture, shape and the amount of veins.
Perigord Black Truffle
Fragrance: First, and most notably, the fragrance of the two truffle varieties is strikingly different. Chinese black truffles do not have a strong aroma. In contrast, the slightly musky and slightly sweet aroma of Perigord black truffles is so pungent and unique, the earthy fragrance cannot be mistaken.
Taste: The taste of the two truffle varieties is also a dead giveaway. When Perigord black truffles are fully mature and cooked (the heating process releases the truffle flavor), they have a distinct flavor, which is undeniably superior to the mild flavor of Chinese truffles.
Texture: Chinese truffles tend to be more elastic than Perigord Black truffles. Sliced Chinese truffles generally won’t break because of the difference in elasticity; they are more likely to bend than break.
Shape: Perigord black truffles are frequently bulbous and irregular in shape, where Chinese truffles tend to be more on the round side.
Veins: When ripe, black truffles should be black inside with white veins. Perigord black truffles are characterized by having many veins, where Chinese truffles may appear darker because they might have less veins and the veins are frequently smaller than those of the Perigord black truffle.
China is known for producing cheap “knock offs” of the real thing, and the Chinese truffle seems to follow this trend. Though the Chinese truffles appear to be very similar to the world famous Perigord black truffle, the differences in taste, texture and aroma are profound. There is no substitute for the divine fragrance and rich earthy flavor of Perigord black truffles.
This Jean Louis Palladin recipe for Black Truffle Potato Cakes with Black Truffle Balsamic Vinaigrette boldly features fresh black truffles and has an exquisite presentation. This decadent seven layer “cake” is made by stacking sliced boiled potatoes marinated in black truffle balsamic vinaigrette with alternating layers of thickly sliced black truffles. After baking the stacks long enough to release the wonderful flavor of the truffles, the “cake” is frosted with black truffle balsamic vinaigrette and minced black truffles.
I intended to make the recipe exactly as it was written in “Jean Louis Cooking with the Seasons”; however, I instead adapted the recipe to what seemed to make sense. The potato slices were supposed to be perfect rounds, with no cracks, cut to exact dimensions with a cookie cutter. Perhaps I cooked the potatoes too long, but there was no way those slices were going to stay together if I tried to cut them to perfect 2 inch rounds. Secondly, the cakes were supposed to cook for 10 – 12 minutes in the oven. Because the flavor of black truffles intensifies with heat, I thought the cakes needed to stay in the oven longer. I cooked them for a good 20 minutes, and still they could have been cooked a bit more. Lastly, the recipe said to use 2 1/2 ounces of flash frozen black truffles, sliced into 1/16 inch slices. I used fresh black truffles and sliced them as directed. I used 2 ounces for two servings, which was almost double black truffle from what the recipe specified. I’ve written the recipe below based on how I prepared it and I was thrilled with the result!
Black Truffle Potato Cakes with Black Truffle Balsamic Vinaigrette
Salt water (1/4 cup coarse salt mixed with 3 quarts water – for cooking potatoes)
4 large well formed russet potatoes (about 10 ounces each and at least 2 1/4 inches wide) scrubbed well
Ice water (for cooling potatoes)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
3.5 ounces Perigord black truffles (preferably large size – 2 ounces or more per truffle)
Prepare the potato rounds about 3 1/2 hours before the dish will be served. Add potatoes to boiling salted water and cook for about 50 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Test doneness with a skewer to prevent breaking the potatoes apart. When the potatoes are tender, transfer them to the ice water for cooling. Reserve the hot salt water.
Process all the Black Truffle Balsamic Vinaigrette ingredients in a blender or food processor.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, heat a very sharp, thin-bladed knife in the hot salt water, then slice 1/8 inch slices. Submerge the knife in the hot salt water after each slice. 28 slices of uniform size will be needed to prepare four cakes. There might be unused potato. Place each slice on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil.
Brush each slice generously on both sides with the black truffle balsamic vinaigrette, sprinkle the tops with salt and pepper and let the potato slices marinate at room temperature for 2 hours. Reserve at least 1/2 cup of the vinaigrette to spoon over the top of the cakes before serving.
Before assembling the cakes, slice the truffles into 24 slices, about 1/16 inch thick. (If the truffles are smaller than 2 ounces each, slice 48 slices, making the slices thinner than 1/16 inch). Mince the scraps and less than perfect slices for “frosting” the cakes. If cut ahead of time, store the truffle slices in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
To assemble and serve, heat the oven to 350 degrees. Assemble the cakes in a small baking pan lined with parchment paper or foil. For each cake, start with a marinated potato round. Season the top lightly with salt and pepper. Cover the potato round with one large or two smaller black truffle slices. Continue until each cake has seven potato slices and six layers of black truffles. End each cake with potato. Brush additional vinaigrette on the top of each cake. Cover the pan with foil and bake the cakes for 20 – 25 minutes or until thoroughly heated. (Ideally, the truffles will be slightly cooked and softened). Heat the serving plates.
Whisk the black truffle vinaigrette and spoon 1 – 2 tablespoons over each cake. Sprinkle the reserved minced black truffle on top of each cake. Serve immediately, providing sharp knives for cutting the cakes at the table.
This recipe for Monkfish Wrapped in Black Truffles and Pancetta with Truffle Sauce is exceptional. This recipe is one of the least time consuming and least complicated Jean-Louis Palladin recipes we have ever prepared. Usually when we prepare recipes from his book “Cooking with the Seasons” we spend anywhere from one to two days preparing the recipe.
Start the sauce: Cream the butter in a food processor. Add the truffles and continue processing until smooth. Cover truffle butter and refrigerate until firm, at least one hour.
To finish the dish and serve: Heat oven to 375 degrees. Slice 1 1/2 oz of truffles paper-thin. Set aside. For the garnish, julenne 1/2 oz of truffles.
Cut the monkfish fillets in half crosswise to form 4 equal portions. Season generously on both sides with pepper. Heat 2 Tablespoons oil in a very large skillet over high heat, 2 – 3 minutes. Add the fish pieces and cook 30 to 45 seconds on each side. Drain on paper towels; let cool about 2 minutes.
Grease a cookie sheet or baking pan with the remaining 1 teaspoon oil; set aside. Now prepare each portion of monkfish as follows: Cover all surfaces of each portion, except the very ends, with 1/4 of the reserved truffle slices; then wrap fish crosswise with 1/4 of the pancetta slices, sealing truffle slices against the fish and leaving ends of fish uncovered; ends of the pancetta slices should be underneath the fish. Once all fish portions are prepared, transfer them, seam side down, to the prepared cookie sheet. Bake uncovered in the preheated oven just until the fish is cooked through, 10 to 12 minutes; do not overcook. Heat the serving plates in the oven for the last 2 to 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, finish the sauce. To do this, combine the reserved chilled truffle butter with the consomme or stock in a heavy saucepan. Heat over medium heat just until the butter is melted, whisking constantly; season to taste with salt and pepper and remove from heat.
When the monkfish is cooked, cut each portion in half crosswise with a sharp knife; arrange 2 of the halves on each heated serving plate and spoon 2 Tablespoons sauce in between. Garnish with the julienne truffles. Serve immediately.
We made these delicious onion crepes with black truffles a few years ago. The combination of flavors of earthy black truffles, duck fat, cream and cured meat is divine!
To make the crepe batter: In one bowl, mix 1/2 cup flour with 1/4 teaspoon salt and set aside. In another bowl, beat 2 eggs, add 1 cup milk, then add the flour mixture, add two tablespoons melted butter. Option: add 1/2 tablespoon of Armagnac or Cognac. Set aside.
Peel the truffles saving the peelings, slice the truffles thin. Cut four round pieces of waxed paper, six inches in diameter if you are using a six inch pan. Rub them with garlic, then brush on some melted butter. Cover the waxed paper rounds with the truffle slices so that the truffles cover the entire paper, brush with melted butter again, then put them in the refrigerator for an hour or so.
Slice the onions thin, place in a pan with goose fat (or duck fat) add the chopped pancetta (or bacon) salt, pepper, and cook until the onions are light golden. Add the truffle peelings and let them heat just a little. Add the cream, heat for two minutes at the most, cover and set aside, keeping it warm.
Make four crepes, the same size as the waxed paper circles. Set aside keeping crepes warm. On each crepe, spread the onion mixture. Take the truffles out of the refrigerator and top each onion covered crepe with one of the pieces of waxed paper, truffles side down (truffle slices are on top of the onion mixture and the paper is on the very top). Put the crepes in the oven until the butter on the wax paper melts and the truffles are warm. Remove from the oven, then remove the paper gently. Serve warm with Fleur De Sel and/or pepper.
Option: when truffles are not in season, you may replace them with foie gras shavings from a foie gras torchon or canned product. In this case, on a warm crepe add the warm onion mixture, add the foie gras shavings, top with a slight sprinkle of pepper, and serve immediately.
This recipe is a simple classic for fresh black truffles, known as Poulet Demi-Deuil, or Chicken in Half Mourning. This recipe is usually prepared with chicken, however, we prefer the taste of Cornish game hen. Black truffles are best when cooked with some form of fat, so if the skin is very lean, baste the breasts with butter a few times during the cooking process. If you are using chicken, you will probably need to double or triple the recipe, since the chicken will be much larger.
Serves 2
Ingredients
• 1 cornish game hen (or double the recipe for chicken)
• 1 oz fresh Perigord black truffle, wiped clean and sliced thin
• Salt and pepper
• 1 1/2 tablespoons butter
• 1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced in half
• 1 tablespoon Madeira
• 1 teaspoon cognac
Instructions
Use your fingers to gently pull the skin from the breast, legs, and thighs of the Cornish game hen without tearing the skin. Slip the truffle slices under the skin, covering the breast and legs completely. Shake a small amount of salt and pepper inside the game hen before trussing it tightly with kitchen string. Wrap the hen in plastic and refrigerate overnight to allow the truffles to flavor the meat.
Rub ½ tablespoon butter on the outside of the bird, then cover with salt and pepper. Rub the cut side of the garlic and then the remaining butter on the inside a small casserole just large enough to hold the bird (casserole should have a lid). Place the hen in the casserole and add the Madeira and cognac. Cover tightly and bake for 1 hour or until golden brown. Keep the breast moist, adding butter if necessary.
Pommes Sarladaise, Sarladais-style potatoes cooked in duck or goose fat with black truffles is one of the most satisfying dishes I have ever had. This style of cooking potatoes in goose or duck fat is done all over the Perigord region in France and can be found on almost every menu in the town of Sarlat. Sarlat is a medieval town, known for it’s wonderful market. The Sarlat market is the place to go to get fresh truffles or foie gras, or any other form of charcuterie. It’s an amazing display of French luxury foods that every connoisseur should experience at least once!
The Market in Sarlat, The Perigord, France
Pommes Sarladaises with Perigord Black Truffles:
2 lbs. Russet Potatoes
1 large Minced Garlic Clove
5 to 6 Tablespoons Goose or Duck Fat
2 Tablespoons Minced Parsley
Salt and Pepper
1.5 oz. Fresh Black Perigord Truffles cut into matchsticks
Peel and blanch the whole potatoes for about 2 to 3 minutes maximum. Remove and pat dry. If the potatoes are small, cut them in 3/8 inch slices, if they are larger, cut them into 3/4 inch pieces. In a large pan, over high heat, add two tablespoons fat (we used goose fat, but duck is great too). Carefully add the potatoes to the very hot melted fat. Reduce the heat, and stir often (gently) until the potatoes start looking slightly golden or when the fat is gone. Add some salt and two more tablespoons fat and cook until golden light brown. Add the garlic, the chopped parsley and one (or two) tablespoon(s) fat. Stir for a minute, add the truffles, then stir for another minute or so, and add salt and pepper if needed. Voila! Serve with the Truffle Omelette, or with Duck Confit.
This recipe is quite simple, allowing the amazing flavor and fragrance of fresh Perigord black truffles to shine through. Black Truffle Omelette will always be one of my favorite ways to enjoy black truffles.
Black Truffle Omelette
Ingredients
• 6 Eggs
• 1 oz Perigord Black Truffle, sliced thin, saving a very small piece to grate for the finishing touch
• 2 1/2 Tablespoons Crème Fraiche
• Salt and Pepper
• 1 oz. Butter
Instructions: Beat the eggs and add the truffle slices. Cover and refrigerate up to 4 hours to allow the truffle flavor to permeate into the eggs. Add two to three tablespoons of crème fraiche to the eggs and truffle slices and stir carefully. Add salt and pepper to taste. In a large hot pan, melt one ounce of butter, add the eggs and truffle. As the eggs cook, push them towards the center of the pan with a wood spatula until they are cooked but still soft. You may serve them as is, or fold the omelette. Sprinkle the graded truffle on top and serve.
Black truffles from the Perigord region in France are now reaching maturity and will continue to improve in flavor and aroma through January and February.
Truffles are a type of mushroom that grows within the root structure of certain varieties of trees. There are over 70 varieties of truffles, but the most sought after varieties include summer truffles, Burgundy truffles, white truffles (Alba truffles), and black winter or Perigord truffles.
Black winter truffles, also known as Perigord truffles, are highly aromatic and have a distinct earthy flavor. When mature, black winter truffles should be charcoal to black inside with white veins. They should be firm; never spongy.
Black truffles from the Perigord region in France are in season from late November until mid March, and reach the peak of maturity in January and February. Prices change weekly, based on supply and demand. Because black truffles are popular on holiday menus, the prices tend to spike during the month of December, and especially for Christmas and New Years.
Perigord black truffles are best when cooked because the heating process releases the wonderful truffle flavor. A black truffle omelette is a simple, but wonderful way to experience the true flavor of black winter truffles. Other popular recipes include Pommes Salardaises, and chicken in half mourning (truffled chicken). A good version of these three classic truffle recipes can be found in the cookbook, Saveur Cooks or on our website www.mirepoixusa.com.
Some additional cookbooks which feature multiple black truffle recipes include Caviar, Truffles and Foie Gras, by Katherine Alford, Truffles, Ultimate Luxury Everyday Pleasure, by Rosario Safina and Judith Sutton, Charlie Trotter’s, and Jean-Louis, Cooking with the Seasons, by Fred Maroon.
Truffles should be brushed lightly to remove any dirt. The skin of the truffle can be peeled or left intact. Truffles are usually sliced very thin, with a sharp knife or truffle shaver.
Store black truffles in an airtight container, wrapped in a paper towel to absorb the moisture. The towel should be changed daily, or as needed. Black truffles are best consumed within a week to ten days after being harvested. It’s best not to store black truffles (or any type of truffle mushroom) in rice, because the rice can dry out the truffle, and there is little benefit in perfuming the rice with the truffle aroma.
For more information about black truffle mushrooms, truffle recipes, or to buy truffles, please visit our website.
http://www.enjoyfoiegras.com/products/truffles.html Preserved black truffle mushrooms from Perigord are a good alternative when winter truffles are not in season.
Preserved truffles do not have the intense flavor and aroma of fresh black truffles, but they can be substituted in some recipes off-season. To add to the flavor of the preserved black truffles, you may add truffle oil, truffle salt, or truffle juice.
This may be my favorite truffle recipe for Burgundy truffles. The nutty flavor of the Burgundy truffles goes very well with the beef filet and pecorino cheese. The black truffle oil really boosts the truffle flavor in this dish–don’t skip it! I think this could also be made with summer truffles or white winter truffles. I wouldn’t use Perigord truffles because Perigord truffles are really best when cooked or at least warm.
Wrap the beef in plastic wrap and place in the freezer for about 30 – 45 minutes until the meat is firm but not frozen.
Meanwhile, Dress the arugula with a splash of huckleberry or raspberry vinegar, a generous drizzle of citrus olive oil, and a sprinkle of fleur de sel and pepper.
Using a sharp knife, slice the filet paper-thin. Arrange the thin slices of beef on a flat plate. Squeeze ½ the lemon on the beef, drizzle truffle oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top the thin beef slices with shaved truffle and pecorino. Put a mound of greens in the center of the plate, and garnish with a wedge of lemon.
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